Does Glycolic Acid Really Help with Acne Scars?

Glycolic acid has earned its spot as a superstar ingredient in skincare routines, loved for its ability to exfoliate and rejuvenate the skin. With its potent ability to slough off dead skin cells, glycolic acid is often used to treat acne, leaving many to wonder: can it really help with acne scars, too?

While glycolic acid is widely celebrated in the battle against breakouts, its role in healing acne scars is a bit more nuanced. Acne scars can be stubborn, and while glycolic acid offers great promise, it’s essential to understand how it works and whether it’s the right fit for treating scars.

What is Glycolic Acid?

Definition and Source:
Glycolic acid is an alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) derived from sugarcane. It’s one of the smallest AHAs, allowing it to penetrate the skin more effectively than other acids, making it a popular choice for exfoliation.

How Glycolic Acid Helps with Acne Scars

Exfoliation:
Glycolic acid’s primary function is exfoliation. By sloughing off dead skin cells, it helps prevent pores from becoming clogged, which in turn reduces the risk of future breakouts. This also allows fresh skin cells to surface, gradually improving the texture of the skin and minimizing the appearance of scars.

Collagen Production:
Glycolic acid stimulates collagen production, which is key for skin healing. As collagen strengthens and thickens the skin, it can improve the appearance of acne scars. This boost in collagen helps fill in indentations or scars, making them less noticeable over time.

Skin Smoothing:
The acid also plays a role in evening out skin tone. Its exfoliating properties target both dark spots and rough texture, helping to fade post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation and other scars left by acne. Over time, this can result in a smoother, more uniform complexion.

Types of Glycolic Acid Products

Over-the-Counter Options

• What they are: Face washes, toners, serums, and peel pads.
• Concentration: 5% to 10% glycolic acid.
• How they work: Provide gentle exfoliation for daily use, helping to smooth texture and even out skin tone.
• Best for: Beginners or those with sensitive skin.

Prescription Strengths

• What they are: Higher-concentration treatments, often used in professional settings.
• Concentration: 20% or more glycolic acid.
• How they work: Faster, more dramatic results but require careful monitoring.
• Best for: Severe acne scars or for quicker results (with dermatologist supervision).

Which One to Choose?

• Start with lower concentrations to avoid irritation and gradually increase based on skin tolerance.
• Gradual increase: Test your skin’s reaction and slowly introduce stronger products if needed.
• Tip: Listen to your skin—if irritation occurs, reduce frequency or strength.

Popular Glycolic Acid Products

Peel Pads

• What they are: Pre-soaked pads for quick exfoliation.
• Example: Bliss Glycolic Resurfacing Pads
• How they work: Provide regular exfoliation and smoother skin texture.
• Best for: Quick and easy use for maintaining clear skin.

Serums & Spot Treatments

• What they are: Concentrated formulas for targeted treatment.
• Examples:
  • L’Oreal 10% Pure Glycolic Acid Serum
  • Clean & Clear Mark Treatment (with glycolic & salicylic acid)
• How they work: Focus on specific areas to treat acne scars and blemishes.
• Best for: Acne-prone skin that needs concentrated care.

Toners

• What they are: Liquid formulas for all-over exfoliation.
• Example: The Ordinary Glycolic Acid 7% Toning Solution
• How they work: Gently exfoliates and helps brighten skin tone.
• Best for: Mild, all-over exfoliation for acne scars.

Side Effects and Safety

Common Reactions

• Possible Reactions:
  • Swelling
  • Itching
  • Burning sensations
  • These are most common for those with sensitive skin.
• Increased Sun Sensitivity:
  • Glycolic acid makes your skin more sensitive to the sun, so sunscreen is essential when using glycolic acid products.

Skin Tone Considerations

• Dark Skin Tones:
  • People with darker skin may be more prone to hyperpigmentation or irritation from glycolic acid.
  • Starting with lower concentrations can help reduce these risks and keep the skin safe.